Is it possible to visit Kew Gardens in half a day? Yes, we tested and approved it! Between the large glasshouses, the different gardens, the viewpoints and the “monuments” of Kew Gardens, it’s absolutely possible to enjoy a very lovely first visit in just a few hours, without feeling like you’re rushing. I’d say you need to allow 3 to 4 hours to discover London’s magnificent botanical garden, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
To do that, it’s best to focus on the key attractions at Kew Gardens. In this article, I’m suggesting a simple route to discover the most impressive spots in the gardens. The idea isn’t to tick everything off, but to see what makes Kew unique: its iconic glasshouses, elegant avenues, immersive spaces and landmark spots.
If you’re visiting London for only a few days, you probably won’t have more than half a day to dedicate to Kew Gardens. I’d even say that Kew Gardens will only be part of your London programme if this isn’t your first stay in London. I visited London many times before going to Kew Gardens, but this visit was enchanting – a green interlude, very different from central London. Since then, we’ve been back to Kew Gardens other times, as a family. In fact, we’ve just spent our Sunday afternoon there for the Orchid Festival, which I’ll tell you about further down.
Here are the main key attractions at Kew Gardens to see if you only have half a day.
Kew Gardens: our key attractions in half a day
The tropical glasshouse: Palm House
This is Kew Gardens’ best-known glasshouse. It’s a magnificent tropical glasshouse dating from the Victorian era. Inside, you’ll find huge palm trees and tropical plants, notably from Madagascar, as well as coffee plants, cacao trees, oil palms and rubber trees. Architecturally, the glasshouse has lovely Victorian spiral staircases, as well as a walkway that lets you admire the plants from above. Note: the Palm House will close for major works from 2027, for 5 years!
Lefkada is the latest Greek island we discovered as a family. It’s part of the Ionian Islands and is particularly easy to reach since you can get there by car via a bridge. Handy! This means you can easily combine a holiday in mainland Greece with a little beach break. As always with the Greek islands, the colour of the sea is superb – a turquoise blue that instantly makes you smile! Lefkada also has the advantage of being large enough to stay for a few days. Besides the beaches, the island offers mountainous landscapes and therefore some very pretty viewpoints all over the place. You can discover them by car or, like us, on a hike.
Let’s set off to discover Lefkada with the children!
Porto Katsiki beach: our favourite beach on Lefkada!
Lefkada as a family: the beaches
To put it simply, there are the beaches on the west coast, the most beautiful – real postcard scenery but potentially a bit choppy – and there are the beaches on the east coast: nice, less paradise-like, but with very calm water.
The west coast beaches:
Kathisma Beach: a beach located in the north-west of Lefkada, near Agios Nikitas where we were staying (see our addresses further down). It’s a very beautiful beach, not to be missed at sunset.
During the October half-term holidays, we visited the region of the Vikos Gorge, in northern Greece, in Epirus. We were keen to go hiking and to discover a part of Greece that is still relatively unknown. The Vikos Gorge turned out to be an excellent choice! With the autumn colours, it was particularly beautiful. We stayed there for two days. Three days would have been more relaxed. Below, I’ll explain how to do the main hike in the Vikos Gorge and also show you the other places not to be missed. Finally, I’ll tell you about the lovely village of Papingo, our base camp.
The Vikos Gorge, in the Zagori region of Greece, is one of the deepest canyons in Europe, with almost 1,000 m of depth over 27 km in length.
Age of our children/teenagers: 13 and 16.
Travel period: late October.
Our family hikes in the Vikos Gorge
The Vikos Gorge, from Vikos to Monodendri ❤
12 km – 5 hours of walking – elevation in this direction: -1080 m, +1380 m – moderate but physically demanding!
This is the hike not to be missed in the region! It’s a point-to-point hike. Generally, hikers plan to return to their starting point by taxi, but we organised things differently by forming two teams: Titpuce and I walked the entire trail from Vikos to Monodendri, while Papa Voyage and Ticoeur turned back before the big climb out of the canyon. They returned to Vikos (walking very fast!), picked up the car and met us in Monodendri (there is a 40-minute drive between the two villages).
As it’s a canyon, the hike profile consists of: a long descent, a lengthy walk along the canyon floor, and a steep climb back up. It’s possible to hike from Vikos to Monodendri or from Monodendri to Vikos. I wondered which option was best, but honestly, I think it doesn’t really matter! For us, Vikos was closer to the village of Papingo where we were staying.
In terms of elevation gain, it’s tough, so even though the hike isn’t technically difficult, you need to be fit: it’s long and strenuous, with over 1,000 m to descend and 1,000 m to climb back up. Note that on the ascent towards Monodendri, it’s sometimes so steep that ropes have been installed to hold on to and avoid slipping. I was worried about this section, but it turned out to be easy. Titpuce had no problems at all. However, for younger children, it could be a bit tricky and they might need help. If you do the hike in the opposite direction, this steep section with ropes may be more difficult on the descent than on the ascent.
Here is the account of our hike in the Vikos Gorge:
We leave Papingo after breakfast and stop at the small shop in the village of Aresti to pick up some supplies. We start the hike in Vikos at 10:15 am. No problem parking the car. The view over the canyon from the start of the hike is beautiful:
Then, the descent from Vikos is easy, not too steep. After half an hour, we reach the small monastery with a lovely turquoise-coloured stream (this adds 30 minutes and 1 km to the hike).
After this first photo stop, we continue descending into the canyon. Here is the canyon floor:
Most of the distance is covered along the canyon floor. Looking up at the sides, you really feel tiny!
For now, we are still all four together. As always, Ticoeur and Titpuce chat as they walk! I really like this section with the carved rock:
Still some beautiful views up towards the heights:
Towards the end of the flat section, Ticoeur and Papa Voyage turn back to return and get the car. They challenged themselves to do the return at a brisk pace along the flat section!
With Titpuce, we continue following the trail. The views of the section climbing back up towards Monodendri are stunning!
The path is steeper, with large rocks:
Allow a good hour of intense climbing to reach Monodendri.
On arriving in the village, there are quite a few tourists sitting on the terraces (mainly Greeks). We’re surprised because we only crossed paths with two hikers in almost five hours of walking! In fact, many visitors come to the Vikos Gorge to enjoy the beautiful landscapes and viewpoints that are accessible without hiking at all! For me, that’s one more reason to go for the adventure! A hike without the crowds! We sit down on a terrace to enjoy an orange cake while waiting for Papa Voyage and Ticoeur.
And if we had to do it again? I think it’s worth booking a taxi (to be arranged in your departure village by asking at a restaurant or accommodation). That way, you can all stay together for the entire hike. An out-and-back hike doesn’t seem like a great option to me, as it’s long and the entire flat section at the bottom of the gorge would feel repetitive. For a more creative option, without a taxi, I think you’d enjoy the best views by doing just the descents and ascents (from Vikos and from Monodendri), without walking the long flat section. Overall, you wouldn’t escape the elevation gain, but you’d save time and wouldn’t need a taxi: you’d park once in Vikos and once in Monodendri!
Vradeto Steps❤
5.2 km (out and back) – 2 hours
A real favourite hike! This old stone staircase, built in the 18th century, has a lot of charm with its narrow switchbacks set in an enchanting natural setting.
The staircase consists of 1,100 steps, built to link villages together. The hike involves climbing them and then descending. We were there just before sunset. It was beautiful and we were completely alone. We did this hike right after the Vikos Gorge hike! Yes, we’re crazy!
See the entire staircase and its switchbacks:
It was getting late, so we went for dinner after this beautiful hike. We found a very good restaurant on the drive back: Zeyxi restaurant in Elati. Then we hit the road again for Papingo (1 hour from the restaurant).
Other highlights in the Vikos Gorge:
The natural pools of Papingo:
Lovely walks following the river and its various pools. In summer, it’s possible to swim there! Perfect for relaxing after a hike!
The old Ottoman bridges:
Built entirely of stone, they are very beautiful. It’s easy to park near each bridge. We stopped at the two bridges we thought were the most impressive:
The Kokkoris Bridge:
The Kologeriko Bridge:
The Stone Forest
A short walk among these stone formations. It’s neither large nor unmissable, as you’ll find similar formations throughout the Vikos Gorge region. But it’s not far from Monodendri, so why not stop by – it’s on the way.
3 viewpoints over the Vikos Gorge
There are two viewpoints accessible by car, with just a short walk from the car park. We chose the Beloi viewpoint ❤. A stunning view! There is also the Oxya viewpoint, but it’s much further away (a one-hour detour by car).
View over the Vikos Gorge from the Beloi viewpoint
Then there is the Monodendri viewpoint: it’s reached after an easy 15-minute walk, as far as the Monastery of Paraskevi:
Which village should you choose to explore the Vikos Gorge?
Three villages for discovering the Vikos Gorge:
To discover the Vikos Gorge region, it’s important to choose where to stay. There are three possible villages:
Monodendri: this is the main village, the largest and the most visited. It’s located to the south of the Vikos Gorge and is the first one you’ll come across on your route. It has a good selection of cafés and restaurants (I highly recommend lunch at Froso’s Pies: excellent and good value!). It’s very convenient for starting the hike into the Vikos Gorge.
Monodendri
Aresti: the smallest of the three villages, located to the west of the gorge. Fewer accommodation and restaurant options.
Papingo: the prettiest and most picturesque. It’s located to the north of the Vikos Gorge, further away from civilisation. This is the one we chose, and we loved it! Our accommodation was great! Several restaurants in the village. The restaurant at the Astra Inn was good. Note that some restaurants were closed, as October is not high season.
Our family accommodation in Papingo:
We stayed at the Bed & Breakfast Avragonio, typical of the region, meaning lovely stone houses. All of Papingo is full of charm, and our B&B was no exception! On top of that, breakfast was gargantuan and very varied! We had a small duplex space, with the children sleeping on the sofa in the living room and us upstairs in a double bedroom. It was perfect, and we really enjoyed the outdoor areas because even at half-term, as long as we wrapped up warmly, we could have breakfast in the courtyard, with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. We stayed for two days and two nights, but we packed in several hikes on the same day. For a more relaxed pace, plan for 3 days in the Vikos Gorge.
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From Papingo, we can see Mikro Papingo above: an idea for another short hike!
Metsovo
Whether you’re arriving in the Vikos Gorge region or leaving it, you’ll probably pass close to the charming village of Metsovo. Its architecture has real character, with all its mountain chalets. Locals like to come here for lunch at the weekend. We walked around the village and then sat on a terrace in the main square for a coffee at Xnapia Café (very good!), before buying spinach pies from the excellent Tampas Bakery.
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I’ll leave you with a few final photos of the region to immerse you in the atmosphere of this rugged landscape in northern Greece!
And you? Fancy discovering the Vikos Gorge and its surroundings? Do you know this part of Greece? You can, like us, combine the Vikos Gorge with a visit to the Meteora!
Here’s a project that was close to my heart: cycling around the Isle of Wight with the family! You know how much we love bike adventures with the kids! Cycling around the Isle of Wight is a classic down here in the south of England. The route is about 100km – a satisfying distance. I split the trip into 3 cycling days. We rode clockwise starting from Cowes. Is it a family-friendly route? That depends on your cycle touring experience. I’ll admit, at first I was worried it might be too tough for our Titpuce (12 years old), who’d never done more than 20km in a day before. Ticoeur (14) was in his element. In the end, I came up with a whole plan to make the adventure easier for Titpuce. She took a shortcut on the first day. I’ll tell you all about it. But in the end, I needn’t have worried. Who was the one lagging behind in the family? Me!!!
Day 2 of our cycling tour of the Isle of Wight with the kids
Cycling around the Isle of Wight with the family: Day 1
The ferry journey to the Isle of Wight
Ticoeur and I set off early from Southampton port. We took a ferry to West Cowes on the Isle of Wight with the company Red Funnel. The crossing takes 30 minutes and there’s space for bikes. We paid £56 return for the two of us and our bikes.
Morning ride: Cowes to Bembridge
Once in Cowes, we crossed the village – on foot, as the main street is pedestrianised. After a few pedal strokes, we were already blocked by an inlet. We had to take a chain ferry to avoid a big detour. Finally, the real adventure could begin! At first, the road climbs a bit and it still feels urban. Then it winds through the countryside. Lots of twists, descents, and climbs. The sky was overcast and it was cool – which helped with the uphill sections! More physical than I expected. The wind was quite strong and changing direction. A proper workout!
After a few kilometres, we finally realised there’s a colour code on the cycle route signs: blue on white means clockwise, white on blue means counter-clockwise. Handy!
Around noon, we reached the waterfront at Bembridge and were starving! We enjoyed a lovely waterside lunch at The Best Dressed Crab Limited. Crab, like at home, is a local speciality. Pricey but delicious. We shared a plate between us and topped up with cereal bars before getting back on the road.
Afternoon ride: Bembridge to Ventnor
We headed south. A drizzle starts. More climbs and descents followed.
What were Titpuce and Papa Voyage up to during this time? As I said earlier, I wanted to ease the route for Titpuce. She had a dance rehearsal in the morning – another reason to take the afternoon ferry and use a shortcut: the Red Squirrel Trail. This path cuts across the island almost straight north to south. It avoids many miles. It’s also very peaceful and mostly flat, as it’s a former railway line.
The weather worsened. For Ticoeur and me, the hills got longer and fog rolled in. When the route neared Sandown, we left the official Isle of Wight Cycle Route for a while and rode along the coast on a stretch of the Red Squirrel Trail. The part between Sandown and Shanklin is really lovely:
After the seaside ride, there’s a steep climb near Shanklin Shine up to the old village of Shanklin (Shanklin Old Village). Ticoeur often had to wait for me at the top.
Old Shanklin, Isle of Wight
A few more miles and we reached the hills above Ventnor. Beautiful green views – slightly misty and damp 🙂
Arrival and family reunion in Ventnor
We arrived at our first accommodation, down in Ventnor village. Papa Voyage and Titpuce arrived 15 minutes later. Great timing! We reunited, all soaked from the rain. Our place was a lovely little apartment with charming decor. Good value for the Isle of Wight. There was also a nice DVD selection. The kids picked Les Misérables to watch.
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When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend!
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We headed out again to a lovely seafront pub: The Spyglass Inn. A great, characterful pub! But it was pouring!
Day 1 Cycling Summary:
45km for Ticoeur and me
30km for Titpuce and Papa Voyage
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Cycling Around the Isle of Wight as a Family: Day 2
Morning: From Ventnor to Chale
We set off early, all four of us. The blue sky is back! What a boost!
We see Ventnor beach again under the sunshine!
Off we go! A long, fairly steep climb awaits us.
As usual, I’m lagging behind on the climbs while Titpuce powers ahead! At the top of a long hill, we take a Mikado break (brought from France). Then, the climb continues! Titpuce and I walk a few hundred metres.
At the top, we have a fantastic view and perfect weather to enjoy it!
Well-deserved lunch break at the pub The Wight Mouse Inn. Their garden is lovely, with a sea view. We order tea and pies. There’s also a play area for younger kids, though Titpuce enjoyed it too. I had wanted to book a night there, but it was fully booked. Also, based on the length of our cycling days, it would have been too early. But depending on how you divide your journey, it could be a good option, so here’s the link to their hotel section.
From Chale to Freshwater Bay
After the pub, we cycle for an hour on narrower, quieter roads. It’s nice not see any cars, even though British drivers are really careful and respectful towards cyclists.
We then return to the main road for the last stretch of the day. There are some cars, but the views more than make up for it. A few more big climbs, and then we reach Freshwater Bay beach.
A few minutes further on is our accommodation for the night: 9 Afton Barns. We booked this very traditional house with a typical English interior. Not really our style, but it’s very neat and spotlessly clean. A good spot inland, not far from Freshwater Bay beach.
We drop off our bags and set off… Hiking!
The Needles:
Yes, I wanted to walk after all that cycling! We pedal a few minutes to the start of a two-hour hike on the western tip to admire The Needles, those little chalk stacks that symbolise the Isle of Wight. It’s a slow but steady climb and we’re facing the wind. The view of the Needles is lovely.
Tonight, we’re skipping the pub so Papa Voyage and I cycle to a supermarket. Pasta party at our rental! The kids are thrilled! And the good weather is back!
Day 2 Cycling Summary:
35 km with lots of elevation!
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Cycling Around the Isle of Wight as a Family: Day 3
With the hardest day behind us, we calmly begin the 3rd stage of our cycling trip—and even add two detours!
From Freshwater Bay to The Needles:
We don’t set off until 10am. Not far from our accommodation is the Piano Café, where we had breakfast on a previous trip to the Isle of Wight. Highly recommended!
Heavy rain begins, but the wind quickly brings back the sunshine—phew!
Our first detour today is to return to see The Needles. This time via the cycle path. We have our National Trust membership, so we can enter the viewing area for a closer look—but honestly, we preferred the free clifftop views from yesterday.
From The Needles to Yarmouth:
We get caught in another heavy downpour! Thankfully it’s short-lived. The sun reappears as we follow a lovely estuary. The path is flat. Very relaxing!
We arrive in Yarmouth, a charming little village. We stretch our legs by walking along the pier before getting back on our bikes.
Then we make a detour for lunch at the island’s best restaurant: The Hut! A fantastic spot for seafood lovers. The setting is stunning too, with sea views. Note: bookings are needed one to two weeks in advance.
Heading to Cowes: The Loop Completed!
Next stop: Cowes, our third accommodation. On the way, we experience very changeable skies, climbs and descents, and plenty of woodland—but sadly, still no sign of the famous red squirrels of the Isle of Wight!
Here’s Cowes! The loop is complete!
We had booked two rooms in a homestay: see Cliffside in Cowes. The host was lovely. He was happy for us to dine in his garden (we quickly bought salads at the supermarket). He also provided tea, coffee, cereals, etc. for breakfast.
Our host suggested one last bike ride along the seafront to a pub with stunning sunset views. We celebrated the end of our cycling tour around the Isle of Wight!
Day 3 Cycling Summary:
50 km including 20 km of detours!
In total, over 3 days, Ticoeur and I cycled 130 km (the official loop is 105 km, but we added lots of extras).
All in all, it was a sporty adventure! Don’t set off without prior experience. It’s better to have done several cycle touring trips first. This route isn’t the easiest—very hilly and shared with cars. But if you’re used to family bike trips, the Tour of the Isle of Wight is a fantastic journey full of great memories!
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Visit to Osborne House
We could have taken the ferry back to Southampton last night from Cowes, but we wanted to enjoy the evening on the Isle of Wight and revisit Osborne House, which we’d seen a few years ago. It’s Queen Victoria’s summer palace. Absolutely stunning, with a rich interior and an impressive Indian-style dining room. The visit took us all morning. Osborne House is located 3 km from Cowes, so just a short bike ride (around 25 minutes). You could also fit this visit in on Day 1 of your cycling tour. Allow at least 2 hours to explore the house and gardens.
Before taking the ferry, we grabbed sandwiches in Cowes from Manny’s Baguettes. Perfect and affordable!
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Tips for Preparing Your Isle of Wight Cycling Tour
Getting to the Isle of Wight: We took the ferry from Southampton, but there are also boats from Portsmouth. If so, you’ll arrive in Ryde.
Planning the cycling stages: The cycling section on the Visit Isle of Wight website is excellent. You can even track the elevation and distance by moving your mouse along the route. See Round The Island Cycling Tour. For the Red Squirrel Trail, Papa Voyage and Titpuce followed the path from Cowes to Ventnor without doing the full loop. See the route. We chose a clockwise direction because it was more convenient for our accommodation and the shortcut on Day 1 via the Red Squirrel Trail.
In our bags: We packed windbreakers and rain capes—essential! Papa Voyage and I each carried a large bag with everything for the family. Don’t forget lots of spare socks—very comforting when it rains! The kids didn’t carry anything. Papa Voyage also had a small repair kit for the bikes. Be sure to bring sunscreen, water bottles, and snacks for everyone!
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So, who’s tempted by cycling around the Isle of Wight?
During the Easter holidays, we spent 2 days in Lisbon as a family. We had already been to Lisbon with the children when they were little. Now, we are parents of two teenagers! That changes the programme a bit. Not completely, but let’s say we adapt to their tastes and their pace. I therefore wanted to write this article to share this visit to Lisbon with our teenagers. Ticoeur is now 15 and Titpuce 13. We made some new discoveries and revisited a few must-see places.
To put this stay in Lisbon into context, I should mention that we set off on a road trip in the Algarve, in the south of Portugal, and combined it with a two-day (and two-night) stopover in Lisbon. The last time we were in Portugal, we also combined the two. It’s a great way to enjoy nature-focused holidays in the south as well as cultural visits in the Portuguese capital.
Right, let’s get started with exploring Lisbon with teenagers!
3 viewpoints not to be missed in Lisbon
First of all, let’s talk about the big advantage of exploring Lisbon with older children: they can walk and climb! Because Lisbon is a very hilly city! As I mentioned back then, with young children it’s quite a workout, whether you have a pushchair or are carrying them! It’s really not the easiest city with little ones if, like us, you enjoy discovering a city on foot. In short, our two beloved teenagers walk (yes, really!) willingly and energetically, so we took advantage of that to reach three beautiful viewpoints over the city of Lisbon.
Mirador da Graça
This mirador is higher than the others, making it the most demanding of the three. At the top, here is the panoramic view, with the Tagus in the distance:
On the left, zooming in a little, you can see the Castelo de São Jorge, a castle we didn’t revisit this time:
Mirador das Portas do Sol
We already knew this viewpoint, which is right in the heart of the Alfama district, our favourite neighbourhood in Lisbon. I think it’s the most beautiful of the miradors, the one not to be missed if you only visit one. We had a coffee there (there’s a kiosk on the panoramic terrace). The perfect break!
London is the capital we know best after Paris. On the blog (French side 🙂 ), I have already written around twenty articles about London with children to tell you about our many visits to the city. It was time to bring all this information together in one complete guide to help you plan your next trip to London with kids. We love London! Papa Voyage studied there at university, and then we went back several times a year, for a long weekend or a week’s holiday. We also have family there, which helped us discover London in a different way, without limiting ourselves to the most touristy spots. And of course, since we have been living in England, just an hour and a half from London, we have the opportunity to go even more often, for a weekend or even just a day.
Whether you are visiting London for the first time or for the umpteenth time, this guide is for you! I have tried above all to keep it concise. For more detailed information, I have included links each time to my other articles. You will find the must-sees, our favourite places in London, and ideas for visits off the beaten track. I also share all the practical information you need to visit London as a family: booking tips, transport advice, restaurants, accommodation and ideas for day trips from London.
Ready for a big family visit to London?
All our favourites are marked with a little heart.
London in 10 walks:
Walks right in the heart of London, walks along the Thames or the canals, walks through the parks of the English capital: so many ways to discover London as a family and on foot! The first walks will take you to London’s must-see sights, while the last three are off the beaten track.
Walk 1: Along the Thames. This is a walk along the south bank of the Thames (South Bank). We start at Tower Bridge and head west via the Queen’s Walk, Shakespeare’s Globe, the Tate Modern, etc., all the way to the London Eye. We then cross the river to finish at Big Ben. An east-to-west walk.
Walk 2: Central London to discover Covent Garden, Neal’s Yard, Carnaby Street, Regent Street, Piccadilly, Chinatown, Soho, etc. A central walk.
Walk 3: A mix of walks 1 and 2: follow the beginning of the walk along the Thames, then cross the river near St Paul’s Cathedral / the City, and continue towards the centre to see the stops from walk 2.
Walk 4: Discover Notting Hill, including Portobello Road, then finish in Little Venice and Holland Park. A walk in the north-west of central London.
Walk 5: Visit the French quarter of South Kensington for its museums, then stroll through Hyde Park and possibly as far as Regent’s Park. A walk in the south-west of the centre.
Walk 7: Visit the City and Shoreditch. A walk in the east of the centre.
Walk 8: Hampstead Heath and its surroundings: this walk includes a visit to Freud’s house, a walk through the residential area of Hampstead and its huge park, and a visit to Highgate Cemetery.
Walk 9: Hackney in north-east London: a small farm, a children’s museum, a park and markets are all on the programme!
Walk 10: Off the beaten track: a very pleasant walk along the Thames, in a non-touristy area, between Putney Bridge and Hammersmith Bridge.
London from above:
Primrose Hill❤ : I love this view! Walk up to the top of the hill in Primrose Hill park, sit down and admire.
The Sky Garden (FREE with booking): I really enjoyed this green space and the views from the 38th floor (160 metres). However, you need to be very organised and book the free tickets several weeks in advance.
Garden at 120 (FREE): right next to the Sky Garden. It is much lower (15th floor), but the advantage is that the terrace garden is outdoors and the space is larger.
10th floor of the Tate Modern (FREE): a beautiful free view towards the north bank of the Thames. There is also a café on site.
The rooftop terrace of the One New Change shopping centre, just steps from St Paul’s Cathedral (FREE), or the rooftops of St Paul’s Cathedral (PAID, included in the cathedral visit).
Horizon 22: a new place to admire London from the top of a skyscraper (FREE. Booking required on Mondays at 10am for the following two weeks). It is on the 58th floor and offers the highest free viewpoint in London (278 metres).
The London Eye as a family (PAID): it is a big budget, so I would only consider it in good weather. With very young children it is more affordable, as under-4s go free.
The Shard (PAID). Since Horizon 22 opened, it is less worth paying for this view, even though The Shard remains the tallest building in London (310 metres).
Museums for a family stay in London:
All our favourite museums are FREE! Note that most of them also offer paid temporary exhibitions, but there is already plenty to see with the free permanent collections!
The Natural History Museum: a must-see, but very crowded during school holidays! Tourists often love it for the dinosaur section, but it is my least favourite part as there is not enough space or distance to properly view the skeletons. For dinosaurs, Paris does it better! At the Natural History Museum, I love the monumental main hall with the whale skeleton. At the very least, go inside to see this room! I also enjoy the mineral, bird and fossil sections. The museum shop is great for buying lovely gifts!
Victoria & Albert Museum ❤ : probably my favourite museum in London. It is opposite the Natural History Museum. You’ll find a very varied collection, originally made up of gifts received by Queen Victoria and Albert. The sections I recommend: the jewellery (the best!), the Roman section, the mosaics and the theatre section. The architecture of this museum is superb! Don’t miss the inner courtyard. The tearoom is very British too! If you’re short on time, just go and see the jewellery and take a moment to admire the courtyard.
The tearoom of the Victoria & Albert Museum
The Science Museum : the neighbouring museum to the Natural History Museum. Very interesting. We particularly like the sections on medicine, steam engines and clocks.
The British Museum : a must-see, but also very busy. The Egypt section and the Rosetta Stone are the highlights. We also really like the Japanese section.
Sir John Soane’s Museum ❤ : a magnificent townhouse with an original private collection. Well worth a visit!
The London Museum : the museum of the city of London through history. It is really designed for children. You move from set to set while travelling through time. The museum is currently being renovated and will reopen in late 2026, but in the meantime the collection can be seen at the docks.
The Tate Modern : if you enjoy modern art, this museum is for you! It is a former power station. At the very least, I recommend going into the main hall (the Turbine Hall), where there is often a monumental installation. Then head to the 10th floor for the view (see above).
Tate Britain : the more classical side of the Tate collection. This museum is often very quiet, yet you’ll find many well-known and beautiful works. I also find its size very pleasant: it’s not too big, offering a great condensed overview of art. It houses the largest permanent collection of Turner paintings.
The National Gallery : a great classic on Trafalgar Square. Here too you’ll find famous paintings by Turner.
The Portrait Gallery ❤ : I really like this collection of portraits through the centuries. It’s right next to the National Gallery and much less crowded. Our children enjoyed it!
The Young V&A : a museum for young children, located in north-east London. We used to go when our children were under 5. You’ll find toy collections there. It’s very popular with London families at weekends, so it can be quite noisy (walk 9).
Barbican Conservatory : a beautiful plant conservatory.
The Wallace Collection : a spacious and pleasant museum in central London. You’ll find tableware, weapons collections, and more. The architecture is lovely. It’s a great way to avoid the crowds and admire a beautiful English interior.
Then there are paid and expensive museums that tourists tend to enjoy, but honestly, there is plenty to do with the free ones I’ve just mentioned. I don’t particularly recommend opening your wallet. That said, The London Transport Museum is popular with families with young children. The Postal Museum is original, with the option of taking a small train on certain days. Finally, Madame Tussauds is very well known, but personally I’m not a fan and it’s extremely expensive. I also visited the London Dungeon a few years ago and wasn’t impressed. As for the Sea Life aquarium, I don’t recommend it (small and very expensive).
London landmarks to discover with children:
Big Ben : what a beautiful symbol of London! Admire it from every angle.
Westminster Abbey : it’s best to go during a concert, otherwise it’s quite a budget. At Christmas, choirs perform there, allowing free access and a wonderful atmosphere.
Parliament : the visit is very interesting, but I’d say it’s more suitable for secondary school pupils who are keen on civics and history. Stunning architecture. An expensive visit.
Tower Bridge : once again, it’s a budget if you want to visit the inside and the mechanisms. Otherwise, it’s simply magnificent to admire from the outside!
The Tower of London : interesting for history lovers. Not a favourite for us, due to the crowds and the price. Yes, the Crown Jewels are impressive, but I prefer admiring the diamonds calmly at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Still, it’s a must for its historical significance.
Trafalgar Square : an iconic square not to be missed, with its lions, Nelson’s Column and museums.
Royal buildings : Buckingham Palace if you have the courage to face the crowds at 11am for the Changing of the Guard, or opt instead for the shorter and less crowded version on Whitehall (Horse Guards / see walk 2).
Off-the-beaten-track London:
A walk along Regent’s Canal ❤ : a very peaceful walk that combines well with a visit to Camden (walk 6).
Neal’s Yard passage❤ in central London: colourful and picturesque (walk 2).
Battersea Power Station : a former power plant converted into a shopping centre (this is the building featured on the cover of Pink Floyd’s album “Animals”).
The Graffiti Tunnel just steps from the London Eye:
The wall paying tribute to Covid victims, along the Thames, after the London Eye:
The Hackney neighbourhood (see walk 9)
Hampstead Heath and the Freud Museum: a lovely residential area with a large park for picnics on sunny days (walk 8).
Family-friendly shows
London is well known for outstanding musical productions, most of which are well adapted for families.
As for cinemas, there is the oldest cinema in London: The Electric Cinema in Notting Hill, or if you want to watch films in French, head to Ciné Lumière in South Kensington.
London markets
First of all, it’s worth noting that London markets are mainly food markets where you can buy lunch:
Borough Market : the most famous one, so expect crowds! Still worth seeing for its urban vibe. Walk 1.
Maltby Street Market : a less touristy version of Borough Market, located nearby (Saturday and Sunday lunchtime only).
Brick Lane Market : you can grab a bite while visiting Shoreditch in east London (Saturday and Sunday lunchtime only). Walk 7.
Spitalfields Market : a pleasant covered market that has been completely renovated. You’ll pass through it on walk 7.
Columbia Road Market ❤ : a beautiful flower market along Columbia Road. Saturdays only (north-east). Walk 9.
Mercato Mayfair : a food court set inside a church. It’s pretty but noisy and expensive. Stop by just for a look if you’re strolling through the very chic Mayfair area.
Broadway Market : a lovely food market in the Hackney area (Saturday and Sunday). Walk 9.
Victoria Park Market : south of Hackney in a beautiful park. There are only a few stalls at this small weekend market, but people mainly go to enjoy the park as a family (worth considering if your accommodation is nearby). Walk 9.
Parks in London:
Hyde Park & Kensington Gardens : the most famous and most central. You’ll almost certainly walk through it. You’ll find the Diana Memorial, where children love to paddle on sunny days. There are also two small free art galleries (the Serpentine Galleries).
Regent’s Park : also central, and I find it more charming. In October, there are art exhibitions during the Frieze London event.
St James’s Park : romantic, with its swans and views of Buckingham Palace.
Primrose Hill : perfect for views over London on a clear day (see above).
Holland Park ❤ : very charming, especially the Japanese garden.
Victoria Park : a large family-friendly park in south Hackney.
London by the water:
The Thames : to really enjoy it, see walk 1. There are also river cruises, but I didn’t enjoy them that much. Fancy walking along the Thames away from the tourists? I recommend starting from Putney Bridge, walking along the landscaped riverbanks of Bishops’ Park, and continuing to Hammersmith Bridge, where you can have a beer at The Blue Anchor pub. Walk 10.
Little Venice : small but charming canal junction, with pretty houseboats.
Regent’s Canal : for a long walk off the beaten track (see walk 6).
The canals around Victoria Park : worth seeing if you’re visiting the Hackney area, but not essential otherwise.
By canal boat to Oxford : I did this once with Ticoeur. Very pleasant, but you need time! Ideal if you’re planning to visit Oxford.
London and the cinema:
In the footsteps of Harry Potter in London: don’t miss the Harry Potter statue in Leicester Square, the entrance to the Palace Theatre where “Harry Potter and the Cursed Child” is playing, Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross station, the MinaLima shop (see the shopping section below) and the beautiful Leadenhall Market in the City.
In the footsteps of Paddington: head to Paddington Station (the station that gave its name to the bear). You’ll see sculptures of the little bear and a shop.
In the Notting Hill neighbourhood ❤: mums will enjoy revisiting filming locations from Notting Hill and Love Actually, especially the small street St Luke’s Mews.
Other films shot in London to watch or rewatch as a family: Fantastic Beasts, Mary Poppins Returns, 101 Dalmatians (the film), and quite a few James Bond movies.
There are also many series set in London: I recommend The Split (divorce lawyers); for something lighter, Ted Lasso (which humorously depicts everyday life at the Richmond football club in the suburbs of London); and of course Doctor Who.
Shopping in London
Liberty ❤ : the most beautiful of London’s department stores!
Fortnum & Mason for tea. I recommend the “Wedding Breakfast” blend.
The Harry Potter shop at Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross.
House of MinaLima ❤ : to discover all the illustrations created for the Harry Potter films.
Harrods : mainly for the Food Hall and the exterior architecture; otherwise, I’m not a big fan.
Hamleys : I only like the ground floor (soft toys and London souvenirs). The other floors are quite ordinary (typical plastic toys). Unless you’re looking for something specific, stick to the ground floor.
Transport information in London:
Apps: we use the Citymapper app or Google Maps to find the best route on foot, by public transport or by car.
Underground: you can top up an Oyster Card or simply tap your bank card (if you don’t have high foreign transaction fees). Good to know: the Tube is free up to and including age 10, then half price up to and including age 18. To get the child fare, you need to ask a member of staff at a station to set up your child’s Oyster Card. Tube maps are available for free in all stations. There’s no need to buy a Day Travelcard, as once you reach its price with single journeys, you won’t be charged any more for additional trips that day.
Buses: free up to and including age 15, and cheaper than the Tube in all cases.
Taxis: they’re pretty :-).
River boat on the Thames: you can use your Oyster Card. It’s more expensive than the Tube, but it’s a nice way to see London differently.
Driving in London: yes, it’s possible to come to London by car if your vehicle isn’t too polluting! If your car is not registered in the UK, you need to register online to check that your car is allowed in the ULEZ (Ultra Low Emission Zone), which includes some great London neighbourhoods: South Kensington, Camden, Chelsea, Fulham, etc. To register, you need to fill in a form to avoid receiving a fine. I recommend doing this about a month before your trip. Once registered, be careful with the Congestion Zone: this is the very centre, which I don’t recommend driving into, as you have to pay during the day and it’s really not practical. So park within the Ultra Low Emission Zone, but not inside the Congestion Zone.
Car parking: we use the website “JustPark” to book parking at a private individual’s home at very reasonable prices. Note that street parking is free on Sundays! That’s why we mostly go to London on Sundays from the south of England.
Arriving by train: with Eurostar, you arrive at St Pancras station. Very beautiful! You can then take the Tube after, like Ticoeur, playing a little piano 🙂
Arriving by plane: the airports are far from the centre but well connected. You just need to allow enough time. From Heathrow, take the Piccadilly Line (around 1 hour) or the Heathrow Express to Paddington Station (faster but more expensive). From Gatwick, take the Gatwick Express (trains run to Victoria, London Bridge or Blackfriars – around 30 minutes). Stansted, used by some low-cost airlines, is further away (50 minutes by train from Liverpool Street station). Luton is about 40 minutes from St Pancras.
London with family: where to stay?
Staying in central London is convenient but even more expensive, as London is already a very costly city for accommodation. We recommend the neighbourhoods of South Kensington, Notting Hill and Tower Bridge, which we find well suited for a family stay. In all cases, you need to book well in advance to get the best prices.
There is a huge choice of restaurants in London, and you can eat very well! Budgets vary greatly too. Here are some relatively affordable options:
At the markets mentioned above.
In pubs. Be careful: in the evening, children are rarely allowed, except in more residential, family-friendly areas. In any case, a pub that doesn’t serve food won’t allow children. Examples of pubs where you can eat as a family: The Barrowboy and Banker near London Bridge, The Mitre next to Hyde Park, The Churchill Arms near Notting Hill, and many others!
In cafés, for an English breakfast or a light lunch. Among chains, I quite like Gail’s cafés.
On the go at Pret A Manger to save money, with a fairly healthy selection.
Quick Asian food: Itsu, considered the best sushi chain by Ticoeur and Titpuce, or Marugame Udon for good, affordable soups (there’s one just steps from Trafalgar Square, very handy!).
The Asian restaurants in Chinatown often offer good value for money, and the area is very picturesque (for example, the Vietnamese restaurant Viet Food).
Indian restaurants: in London, you have to eat Indian food! It’s a very prominent cuisine due to the importance of this culture in England. Indian restaurants are often affordable, though there are also more upmarket options such as the famous Dishoom.
Fancy an afternoon tea as a family? I’m often asked for good places for afternoon tea. It’s true that it’s an English tradition, but it’s often expensive, and for me there’s simply too much food, not always to my taste, as it’s usually a mix of savoury and sweet treats. And sweet isn’t really my cup of tea :-). That said, here are some addresses that have been recommended to me: Brigit’s Bakery near Covent Garden, the brasserie The Wolseley near Piccadilly, and of course all the grand hotels (but that gets very expensive!).
I’m also often asked about brunch spots in London. Brunch is an American tradition, not an English one. So yes, you can find brunch in London, but it’s not typical here. Instead, go for the English Breakfast experience. I like the one at the small Café de Provence.
Family excursions around London:
Visit the Harry Potter Studios ❤ : The two most important points: 1/ book several months in advance, 2/ book on the official website to avoid the exorbitant prices charged by agencies and resellers.
Kew Gardens : a huge botanical garden, located west of London (accessible by public transport).
Visit Windsor Castle : the castle is beautiful, and so is the small town!
Visit Hampton Court, the palace of the famous Henry VIII (yes, the one with six wives and tragic destinies).
City trips less than 2 hours from London
A day in Cambridge ❤ : Cambridge was a real favourite!
A day in Oxford : I preferred Cambridge, but Oxford has some lovely museums, and the Cotswolds are not far away!
Discover the New Forest❤, the largest forest in England, with thousands of free-roaming ponies! I love this forest, which is right next to where we live! Don’t hesitate to come and have a cup of tea with me :-).
A day in Brighton: I’m not a big fan of this seaside resort, but I know many people want to go, so it’s still an idea (accessible by train).
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Who’s going to London as a family soon? Any other questions?
Here you’ll find more ideas to prepare your trip to London:
Every time I show London to friends or family members who come to visit us in England, I clearly have a favourite itinerary that allows you to see the essentials in central London. This route is a perfect introduction for a first family visit to London, or a great refresher if you already know the English capital well. This walk through central London will keep you busy for a full day at a fairly intense pace. You can also spread it over two days for a more relaxed rhythm, especially if you have young children or children who are not keen walkers. I have done this itinerary several times as a family. It includes stops at places that interest children. Among the stages of this route, there are the great classics as well as some off-the-beaten-track spots. I also share some places to eat. In short, I hope this will help you make the most of central London!
Family itinerary in central London
Big Ben
I like to start at Big Ben, at Westminster underground station (on the District Line, my favourite line). Because Big Ben is the symbol of London, and because it is looking brand new after its restoration. If I plan it well, I aim to arrive just before the clock strikes. I love the sound of Big Ben! Once you are here, you can of course take the opportunity to visit Westminster Abbey or Parliament. Both visits are interesting but expensive. My philosophy for a stay in London is to do only one paid visit as a family and instead focus on all the free places and, above all, on walks that let you really feel the pulse of the British capital. On the other side of the Thames, you will spot the giant wheel of the London Eye.
The Changing of the Guard at Whitehall
From Big Ben, in an 8-minute walk, if you head up Whitehall, you will arrive in front of the Royal Horse Guards.
This summer, we went back to Copenhagen as a family for a sailing competition for Ticoeur. It was our second time in the Danish capital. The first time, we visited Copenhagen when Ticoeur was only 2 years old! Just a baby! This year, we experienced Copenhagen with two older children (aged 12 and 15). Because of their ages, we didn’t quite have the same sightseeing wishes. So this trip was a mix of places we wanted to revisit and new ones we were keen to discover. Here’s a roundup of our family visits to Copenhagen, 2024 edition!
Copenhagen with kids: 10 ideas for visits
1 – Nyhavn: we never tire of it! It’s the little harbour everyone recognises from photos. With its colourful houses, it’s extremely photogenic. It was the first place we wanted to take the kids. Ticoeur obviously didn’t remember it. Last time, he was in his pushchair. And for Titpuce, it was her first time. Returning to a city years later gives you quite a sense of how time flies – softened, fortunately, by a lovely nostalgia for us happy parents. The facades haven’t changed; only our children have grown a lot! Last time, we took a one-hour cruise from this harbour. It was perfect and family-friendly. Highly recommended.
This summer, we went back as a family to the Bassin d’Arcachon. We absolutely love this area! This wasn’t our first stay on the Bassin, so I felt like sharing a round-up of our favourite spots and child-friendly activities. Depending on the length of your stay, you won’t necessarily manage to do everything. My list is a summary of three stays there. Of course, there are places we happily return to, beaches we particularly enjoy, and oyster huts where we love meeting up with friends. For us, the Bassin d’Arcachon really goes hand in hand with reunions, as several of our friends spend their summers there. It’s a bit like the film Les Petits Mouchoirs, but without the accompanying drama 🙂
This summer, we were based in Le Teich and explored the Bassin d’Arcachon from there. The previous time, we were based in La Teste-de-Buch, and the time before that in Cap-Ferret. Everywhere is great!
Trip to Cap-Ferret:
Cap-Ferret is an unmissable and utterly charming stop! For Papa Voyage, it’s full of childhood memories, as he spent all his summers there. It’s best to go early in the season, and preferably in July rather than August. This year, we were there in the third week of July and it was perfect. Cap-Ferret has something magical about it, as it separates the calm waters of the basin from the ocean: two atmospheres in one place! Such a contrast over just a few metres. We wandered around the lighthouse area and the tip of the peninsula. I must admit that the ocean side always impresses me. We walked in the shade of the pine trees before settling down on the vast and beautiful beach at the Pointe. This time, as we were staying in Le Teich (so in the south of the Bassin), we went by car and drove around the Bassin, but the quicker option is to take a boat between Arcachon and Cap-Ferret. All the information about the shuttle boats here.
The village of L’Herbe:
Once in Cap-Ferret, it’s really worth going as far as the village of L’Herbe, an oyster-farming village full of charm with its old, colourful huts. The edges of the Bassin are particularly lovely here, and the oyster huts all invite you to take an iodised break with a view.
Visiting the lovely town of Arcachon
In high season, Arcachon can be very busy, so it’s best to go early in the morning or in the evening. The half-timbered houses are full of charm, especially the huge villas of the Ville d’Hiver, a district where 19th- and early 20th-century houses with incredible architecture are concentrated. There must have been a competition to see who could build the biggest and most original one! A stroll through the town centre is also a must, ideally ending with a little ice cream. We loved the ice creams from Olala:
Hiking in the Gorafe Desert with the Family was one of the highlights we had in mind for our latest trip to Andalusia. After exploring the main Andalusian cities and the famous white villages on previous visits, we were keen to discover the “desert” side of the region. And as you know us, we love family hikes! So, the famous 24 km hike in the Gorafe Desert seemed like a perfect plan—admittedly a bit of a challenge, but nothing we couldn’t handle.
We based ourselves in Guadix to explore the desert. This town in eastern Andalusia is famous for its cave houses. The village of Gorafe is just a 30-minute drive away, making Guadix a convenient base. Plus, the area around Guadix is full of other stunning desert landscapes to discover, including the Badlands.
Why the Gorafe Desert is so captivating
The Gorafe Desert is full of striking geological formations in shades of ochre and red. It forms part of the Granada Geopark, a UNESCO-recognised site of geological and cultural importance. You’ll see large ravines that might remind you of the American West. In fact, it’s funny—when trying to describe the Gorafe Desert, references to the US keep popping up. Those Americans really are masters of marketing! They’ve planted the image in our minds, while ironically, seeing the western US could just as easily make you think: “Wow, this looks just like the Gorafe Desert!”
If you dream of wide-open spaces, canyons, and real escapism, Andalusia is a must. The Gorafe Desert won’t disappoint—it’s a real favourite of ours.
Gorafe Desert
A quick warning: the renowned Ruta del Desierto de Gorafe leading to LosColoraos is tough—not technically, but because of its length and elevation gain.
Before we went, there was very little information on whether families could tackle this hike. Even without children, it seems few people walk this route. Now that we’ve done it, though, we can confidently say it’s the best way to experience the desert—and we hope this guide helps sporty families who want to give it a go!
Our Family Hike in the Gorafe Desert
Here are the key details of our hike:
24 km loop: it’s long. Children should be used to long walks. We completed it in 6½ hours, including a 30-minute lunch break—so 6 hours of walking in total.
Halfway along, at the furthest point, you reach the famous viewpoint Los Coloraos, where the geological formations are most colourful, with shades reminiscent of a Western movie! Yes, I know—I’m comparing it to the US again! Pfff!
Elevation gain of 753 metres: we’ve tackled this kind of climb in the mountains before, but two things made it tricky here. First, the trail starts by descending into a canyon, meaning the easiest section comes first. By the time you reach Los Coloraos, the hard part is still ahead! Psychologically, this is tougher than summiting a mountain—at least then, the worst is behind you. Second, a 753-metre climb in the Alps on a cool day is one thing, but in southern Spain, it can get hot. We were there in April, a lovely season, but the desert temperature swings quickly. Starting at 9am, it was 13°C, soon climbing to 16°C—perfect. After lunch, we faced the climb back in 24°C heat, which made those 753 metres feel even tougher, especially with little shade.
Trail conditions: there’s no technical difficulty as the path is a 4×4 track. It’s wide, comfortable, and easy to follow. The route is signposted as PR-A 426. In 6½ hours, we only saw one 4×4! These excursions are pricey, so traffic is rare. We also planned to hike on a weekday, in case Granada locals visited at weekends.
If you’re still reading, you’re probably feeling up for it! For children used to hiking, it’s very manageable. This is not a beginner’s hike, nor is it for very young children. Ticoeur and Titpuce were 14 and 12 at the time. More important than age is whether your kids can walk 6 hours with a serious climb. Shall we go?
The Ruta del Desierto Loop via Los Coloraos
We started the Gorafe Desert trail at 9am. To reach the start, drive to the village of Gorafe and follow the signs upwards. We parked at the trailhead, completely alone, next to a large information board. We chose to hike clockwise, but honestly, it doesn’t matter much. The advantage of our direction is that you see the most beautiful and varied landscapes first. If you don’t complete the loop, you can always turn back and you’ll already have seen plenty.
And we’re off!
We soon felt immersed in this exceptional geopark:
The snowy Sierra Nevada looms in the distance…
The landscapes keep changing as we move forward…
Two hours in…
And onwards…
Feels a bit like Colorado, doesn’t it? 🙂
We reach the viewpoint Los Coloraos, halfway through the loop (about 12 km). It’s the most famous viewpoint in the Gorafe Desert—but honestly, the scenery was beautiful all along the way. Even if you tire before reaching it, you’ll have seen incredible views.
Los Coloraos, Gorafe
We stopped for a picnic at noon after three hours of walking, finding some shade in a bend. After lunch, it was time to climb out of the canyon—and it felt hot!
We passed the Barranco de Los Anchurones:
As I mentioned, the climb back is challenging. We spotted a 4×4 camper van struggling on the track, which had large ruts on the second half of the route.
Passing the Cerro de la Bandera:
We continued to climb, slowly but surely, discovering more stunning formations in lighter shades:
We were almost done when we spotted the glass house (a hotel) at the start of the hike. Fun fact: this house appears in an episode of Black Mirror. I’ve watched many episodes of this TV series, but I hadn’t seen this particular one.
The final stretch winds through an almond orchard:
Back at the car, we hadn’t encountered any other hikers—the car was still alone. We’d brought plenty of water, which we drank during the second half of the hike! Exhausted and thirsty, we returned to Gorafe village and ordered two drinks each at the first bar we found. As I mentioned earlier, 24°C with no shade really feels hot! Everyone was wearing trousers—hiking trousers that convert to shorts would have been ideal for the climb back. And of course, don’t forget hats and sunscreen!
Options for Discovering the Gorafe Desert as a Family if the Hike is Too Challenging
Shorten the hike. This is the best option if 24 km feels too much. Even the first few kilometres are stunning! 2, 3, or 5 km—choose a distance that suits your children and turn back whenever you like. Don’t be disappointed if you don’t reach the Los Coloraos viewpoint—the views are incredible from the very start.
Take a 4×4 tour: I mention this mainly to warn you that you might encounter 4x4s on the trail, as it doubles as a track. Personally, I don’t recommend it. Walking allows you to really absorb the scenery. Plus, we hope hikers won’t see more than one 4×4 like we did—luckily, we only saw one! These tours are expensive anyway, which keeps traffic low.
Drive to the Los Coloraos viewpoint: With a normal car, you can do the first half of the loop as an out-and-back. The second half is too rough. But in my opinion, driving is less rewarding than walking. It’s better to do a short hike. Even if the track is decent in the first section, a rental car wouldn’t be covered for damage. Avoid it!
Electric bike: At the end of the hike, we saw a young couple preparing to cycle the loop on e-bikes. Fine for a couple used to rough tracks, but I couldn’t do it! For a family, it’s tricky—even with e-bikes, there’s a big climb and rough terrain. Plus, for four people, rentals would be costly.
In short, adjust the hike to your fitness, motivation, and family hiking experience. Bring plenty of water and soak in the views!
Our Guadix Accommodation: a Charming Cave House
Gorafe is an hour east of Granada, so it’s possible to visit from the city. But for a 24 km hike, staying closer makes sense. Gorafe village has some lovely cave accommodations, but they were pricier than in Guadix, a small town 30 minutes away. So, we compromised. We stayed in Guadix for two nights at this wonderful cave house. We loved it—highly recommended!
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The accommodation is in Guadix’s cave house district, on the outskirts of town—a very typical area. Our cave house was comfortable, with a kitchen, bathroom, two bedrooms, a small courtyard, barbecue, and even a tiny pool (water too cold in April!). Highly recommended.
Here’s the cave district. Not long ago, it was mainly inhabited by Romani people. Today, there are some locals and several tourist accommodations.
This district is different from central Guadix. Approaching the town by road, you first see the modern, less charming part. Then you discover a small, pleasant historic centre where we strolled in the early evening near the cathedral and castle.
For food in Guadix, we recommend the bar-churreria Cafetaria Versalles, serving excellent churros with hot chocolate—perfect before a family hike. It opens early, so we went at 7:30am:
We also enjoyed cooking in our cave house courtyard, but on our last night we tried a local restaurant: Braseria La Tinaja, a large grill-restaurant at the town edge. Very popular, with a friendly waiter, lively atmosphere, generous portions, and excellent value!
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The Badlands Around Guadix
Another perk of staying in Guadix is being able to enjoy the Badlands landscapes. Guadix is part of the geopark, and the scenery is very similar to Gorafe. Just a few minutes from the town, there are several viewpoints accessible by car. If you haven’t done the full Gorafe Desert hike, you can opt for shorter walks in the Badlands. Here are three viewpoints we visited by car.
First, the viewpoints at Purullena and Marchal, right next to each other, offering beautiful panoramas:
Next, the viewpoint at Beas de Guadix:
Finally, we left the Badlands via a scenic road. Our next destination? Granada!
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In Conclusion:
I hope I’ve inspired you to explore this corner of southern Spain. The Gorafe Desert and Guadix region offer breathtaking, cinematic landscapes. The Gorafe Desert hike is challenging, but you can always shorten it. Staying in Guadix lets you see a lesser-known, quieter side of Andalusia. Spring seemed ideal for this region—avoid the summer heat.
And if you enjoy family hikes, check out my article on the Caminito del Rey hike in western Andalusia—it’s very easy. Next time we return to Andalusia, we plan to explore another desert: the Tabernas Desert!
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So, are you tempted by the Gorafe Desert and the Guadix region?
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